SIDR Craft, a social enterprise established in 1992, is at the heart of preserving the ancient Indian textile technique of Bandhani. Led by brothers, Jabbar and Abdullah Khatri, the enterprise employs approximately 300 craftswomen from 8 villages in Kutch, Gujarat, India. These skilled artisans work from the comfort of their homes, contributing to their communities and enjoying the transformative power of their craft.
Bandhani, derived from the Indian phrase "tying up," is a meticulous process that involves tying and knotting fabric before dyeing. Each piece is a masterpiece, with intricate patterns created by hand. The process can be time-consuming, with some designs taking up to a year to complete.
Beyond Bandhani, SIDR also works with clamp dyeing, a technique inspired by Japanese Itajime. This involves folding fabric in geometric patterns, clamping it between wooden blocks, and immersing it in a dye bath.
SIDR has made significant efforts to revive natural dyeing practices, which were nearly lost due to the market's preference for low-cost synthetic dyes. Their commitment to sustainability and cultural preservation is evident in their use of natural materials and traditional techniques.
Their pieces are more than just a textile; it is a cultural artifact. The Chandrukhani shawl, for example, holds deep symbolic meaning. It is traditionally presented to a newlywed bride by her mother-in-law as a welcome to her new home.
SIDR's founders have been awarded the UNESCO Seal of Excellence for their exceptional craftsmanship. Their dedication to preserving Bandhani and their innovative approach to the technique have made them global leaders in the field.
A Personal Touch: Jabbar's Legacy
Since the day Mary Anne and Jody met Jabbar, they have hosted him at our store in Maiden Rock. Once to teach a class and once to give him a place to rest in between his domestic travel schedule including a gig at the Textile Center in Minneapolis where we connected him to their audience.
We’ve visited him in India a few times, too. We've enjoyed his mom’s cooking, learned about local markets while shopping with his wife, and spent time in his atelier abuzz with activity.
During a recent visit to Jabbar, Mary Anne and Jody learned about the origins of Bandhani within the Khatri community. The Khatris, known for their dyeing skills, have a fascinating legend about a fakir who blessed them with the technique.
Jabbar's innovation and constant search for new applications of Bandhani have distinguished him as a leader in the field. Together with his brother Abdullah, he has garnered global recognition for their artistry and their commitment to preserving this ancient tradition.